Day 19

The morning was beautiful. Sunny but not hot. After breakfast I cycled down to the Moselle and followed the cycle path that follows the South bank of the Moselle through a park to "Deutsches Eck" (German Corner) which is the point of land which is the confluence of the Mossele and Rhine. 

Here is also probably the ugliest and most depressing monuments I have ever seen, a giant statue in honour of the German emperor William the First. 

You will notice in the picture a group of mature German cyclists. A closer examination of the area of their bikes around the pedal will show that three of them are electric bikes. This is really common, both in German cities and on the Rhine cycle route. My guide to Bingen the previous day had been on one. I think this is brilliant as less sporting, fit, or able (or lazy) people can enjoy cycle touring (which is a wonderful way to see the world). Combine this with the tens, perhaps hundreds, of thousands of kilometres of dedicated cycle ways and you see why there are so many. Put your mobility scooters away and get an electric bike!

Anyway, the depressing, vainglorious, monument was relieved by the presence of an excellent Hurdy-Gurdy man, a short video if whom is in the Smugmug album. 

I was disappointed that Koblenz, venue of my adolescent school trip, was actually very uninteresting and I departed.  Being at the confluence of two major river routes it does have some really impressive river barges parked up. Here is a picture of one such - with parking for three cars and the crane to put them ashore!

The area immediately north of Koblenz (for about 15 km) sees the Rhine Gorge temporarily less noticeable, allowing the relatively flat land around the river, combined with access to the river, to be used for logistics centres, petrol storage facilities, industrial units etc. I hurried through this and arrived back into the pretty Rhine landscape I had experienced the previous day. Pretty villages by the river framed by green hills. Regular ferries now cross between villages on each bank.

 Late morning I came across a rather nice village (Andernach) and stopped for a glass of the local produce. This picture demonstrates (if such were required) the mistake of not bringing my straighteners on the trip! Also, that wineglass is not that big. It's a perspective thing!

Refreshed I continued to casually descend the Rhine (this was to be a shorter day) until another pretty village with lovely smells remaindered me it was lunchtime. A short time later I was eating an excellently prepared super-noodle and tuna lunch. 

I have previously mentioned the school trip I took in the late 60's. This also featured a ride on the Rhine on a paddle vessel. This could have been the very same one!

After lunch I passed the "Bridge at Remagen" for those who have seen the film starring George Segal and Ribert Vaughn.   All that remains (following it being destroyed by the Germans 10 days after its capture by the Americans) are the bridge towers on either bank. 

Eventually, I came to this rather splendid, two castle, hill. The hill is actually part of the Siebengebirge (seven hills) region and The castle is Schloss Drakenberg.  It would make a splendid home for a Bond baddy.  It would, once I was opposite it, mark my exit from the Rhine. Decided I would take a swim (rude not too) which I promptly did.

Dried myself and cycled my last kilometre on the Rhine. Came opposite the magnificent pile and with a last photo of the EuroVelo route 15 way mark turned left and West. 

The benefits of the Rhine route immediately evaporated. No good way signs, no other cyclists, no great bike path, no flat riding. An hour of climbing started immediately through very pleasant rural countryside and small villages with cute churches

Passed through some deserted but clearly recently harvested strawberry fields where my larcenous thoughts were firmly suppressed!

The route also passed many fruit fields (apples, pears etc) and wild cherries and plums in ripe condition. Some fields seemed to be growing trees for, presumably, garden centres. 

Entered Rhienbach, had a magnum (ice cream not champagne) and washed Betty (who was looking very grubby) at at petrol station car wash. Decided this is where I would stop and pulled into a very nice looking bar/restaurant where I again sampled the local produce and the English speaking owner sorted me out with a room and A good, cheap, local B&B. 

Decided I would celebrate the start of the end if my journey with a really good meal at the restaurant. I did and it is the best meal I think I have ever had.  Beer to start, a fantastic Bouillabaisse, fillet steak with shallots in wine, creamed sweet potatoe, and a great sauce for mains with a fabulous Tempranillo/Merlot red. Plum schnapps for the nightcap. Back to the B&B too tired(!) to do the blog. Slept well. 

Before I slept I checked accommodation options for the end of the planned long day on Saturday which was to finish in the Liege/Namur area. Turns out hotels/B&Bs/Camping all had the availability demonstrated in Bethlemem on a famous Christmas Eve. Why, I mused? Turns out the culprit is the Belgium a Grand Prix in Spa this weekend.  Going to change my route to a more Northely one (towards Maastricht) and hope I can find something although this area, further from Spa, still looks busy.