Monday 10 August 2015

Days 6-7


I have combined these days since they have been broadly similar and without particular characteristics that would justify individual posts.  I'll illustrate the narrative with pictures and throw a few extra in at the end. The full set is on Smugmug - http://philholden.smugmug.com/. I've had a slight problem with the clock on my camera so the pictures on Smugmug are only roughly in the right order. I'll manually rearrange when I have enough patience. 

I had a great nights sleep in Venice punctuated with occasional calls to reception to adjust the air conditioning! Strange but true - each room controlled from reception. Bonus - breakfast was included and a good one at that. Getting out of Venice was tricky. The pretty bridges are again a pain. Started relatively late after some maintenance on the bike. The exit from the island is across the only bridge which serves for road and rail. Fortunately, between a rock (the road) and a hard place (the rail line) there is a cycle track which, if not visually brilliant, is safe. 



Finding the right exit is a bit tricky, especially with Google Maps randomly switching between left-hand and right hand drive! (Drive left around this roundabout - wrong - but rifpght around the next - correct). This is particularly confusing when (as often in Italy) major roads split apart slowly. When Google is in the incorrect left-hand mood it appear to point down the left ramp when it means the right!  Only made two mistakes among a fairly intimidating maze of major roads and motorway Ramps. First impressions are that, In general, cycles are way more protected in Italy than in Croatia. There were more fully protected cycleways in the first two kilometres once across the bridge than all the days I had in Croatia. This is good and has been reinforced the whole time. 

This part of Northern Italy is characterised by very flat river valleys with many small, prosperous looking villages. Between the major cities it is all agriculture with corn, vineyards and fruit orchards being the most in evidence.  Around the cities are rather bleak commercial belts.

The countryside is beautify (as is the flat cycling!) and the summer drink of choice in the bars is Aperol Spritz which is a fantastic drink (and inexpensive) for the weather.  Speaking of weather every day has had highs of at least 38°C (100°F) which has been great for my tan but poor for cycling. As ever, obtaining and drinking enough fluid is a constant concern - especially on the very rural lanes where bars and houses are infrequent (and on Sunday when many are closed). McDonalds is my favourite in his regard. Always open, signposted, and sells buckets of brain-freezing, easily glugged, core-temperature reducing Iced Tea.

The major towns are universally impressive (and full of tourists). Padua,Vicenza, Verona, Brecia - I'm on a 19th Century Grand Tour! They are all similar in that the are (at the centre) a mix of medieval and Renaissance street plans and architecture. Grand palaces, narrow lanes, monumental churches, grand piazzas, arcaded avenues.  

Smaller towns and villages are pretty, quiet (a least in the heat of the day), and dominated by ridiculously large and ornate churches. 

I've slept mainly in small hotels in spite of my desire and intent to camp. At these temperatures the day ends covered in dry salt/sweat (sorry) and with no surface water to clean up. Sleeping at humid 30°+ nigh impossible. Camping will wait until a wider availability of campsites and/or cooler temperatures

Illustrative pictures - first two quirky ones

My reintroduction to the always elegant "squatter" toilet! To avoid accusations of providing too little information - I did not take full advantage of the facilities. The bar on the left of the photo is presumably for the rescue of the desperate arthritics. 


On the road in Arlesega. If this is not an Ent then Gandalf doesn't blow smoke rings!

Now the normal ones - the rest on Smugmug






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