Tuesday 11 August 2015

Day 9

A lazy start today. It's a short leg to Bergamo and there is no hurry. Caught up with my blog and used the good Internet in Iseo to update the photo album. I feel relieved that I've caught up as I've been too tired on many evenings, or the Internet is been too poor, for this. Took time this morning to have a really nice visit to the town center by the lake. It is a really great spot with a spectacular mountain/lake location and terrific market. 



As yesterday it is a, by recent standards, a cool day with forecast of a high of "only" 34°C (93°F). The wind is again strong and adverse but, with a short cycle today, I don't care. Followed  the road along the lake in a desultory manner. I have been spoiled by the excellence of the cycle paths in northern Italy. Although they exist along this route they are they are intermittent I'm not in good condition. The road is busy and I put on my helmet. Stopped around 12:30 for the now mandatory Aperol Spritz. Just delicious and I think I am becoming addicted. Posted a dodgy selfie. 

Used the lazy cycle to meditate on the journey, the bike, me and lessons from the first phase from Zagreb (many of which I knew but needed reminding). See end of this days blog for philosophy. 

Arrived in Bergamo mid-afternoon after a journey than prompted only one photograph. Went to see Città Alta - the medieval part of Bergamo, walled and on top of a very big hill. Took the funicular railway 😉 up and down. I think I'm getting jaded with monumental medieval/Renaissance cities! Under other circumstances but familiarity breeds contempt. It was nice. Good job a mountainous change if scene is in prospect. 


Back to my earlier musings.

Me. In good condition if a bit thinner. As previously mentioned it's hard to keep up with the calories and the heat doesn't help. Eating your own body only works for a while so this will need to be solved. A few of the normal bicycle related scratches and a broken tooth (for no good reason) and that's it. 

Bicycle. Betty is awesome and taking everything in her stride. Looks and performs as good as new. Only issue is the bicycle stand which has taken a beating. Bike is very heavily loaded so some sympathy as I think it's as robust as available. Thanks Richard at Oxford Bicycke Works, this would not be as much fun with bike issues. 

Lessons learned (or remembered) (in no particular order - except the first - which is the "punto principale" as we say here.)

•Life is beautiful and short (shorter still if you have used well over half). Don't waste it!
Cars are scary, trucks are scarier, big trucks are terrifying!

A journey of a thousand miles begins with a single step [pedal]. (Attributed to Laozi) Put another way, a long bike ride is just a lot of short ones - end to end. 

Heavy bikes make for hard work.
Google Maps has issues, some dangerous. Buy TomTom for IOS (and read the manual!). It can still take you right, left, left and right around a block of an anonymous housing estate on occasion. You learn to spot these! Charming idiosyncrocies. 
Sunglasses are essential but easily broken
Teeth are less easily broken but if you do it's great if it doesn't hurt
Croatians and The northern Italians are noticeably less obese UK citizens. Especially the young. 
The more stylish Italian woman cycles to lunch in her heels! None of your Nike practicality here.  Ben fatto la donna italiana. Impressionante e poco pratico! (Hope that is right)
•Italian women are slim, stylish and wear tight pants/shorts. So are/do the men. There is a striking absence among young men of the "muscle culture" prevalent in the UK/North America. The fashionable young male body shape is reminiscent of a young Iggy Pop.
A plan [ride] never survives first contact with the enemy [road]. Apologies to  Helmuth von Moltke the Elder!
•In a town with several bars be picky but don't ride past the last one!
Aperol Spritz (alcoholic) and Iced Tea (non- alcoholic) are the best and most morale boosting drinks on the planet at temperatures above 35°
Wind a real pain ( not that kind of wind - fool!)
"Strada Chiusa" is generally a bad sign to see - especially on a long country lane
The last 20km of the day is at least twice as long as any other 20km
An apple a day keeps the doctor away (just kidding!)

As always photos on Smugmug http://philholden.smugmug.com/


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